| Author |
Message |
Nick Jones (Woodiebc)
New member
Username: Woodiebc
Post Number: 15
Registered: 5-2012
| | Posted on Saturday, June 30, 2012 - 12:56 pm: | |
Hi all,
Ok I've lasted my first boot and so far it's gone pretty well. My side seams though want to pull in, I've trimmed them pretty close and gave them a beating. I have not put any pulls on this boot and I think that might be part of the reason.
What is the best way to flatten out the trimmed side seams?
Before turning, after turning, wet leather, dry leather?
Any advice gratefully received.
Nick |
Paul Krause (Paul)
New member
Username: Paul
Post Number: 369
Registered: 1-2008
| | Posted on Saturday, June 30, 2012 - 3:43 pm: | |
Nick,
One of my old teachers used to say, "there's more than one way to skin a cat, but either way he doesn't like it." I'm sure you get my meaning.
I don't "tree" my tops until later in the process, but I use the plastic spring "boot shapers", in the tops after lasting, while the tops are still damp. I have firm plastic sections, which I think were a box that some kind an electronic devise came in. I slide them down between the tops and the shapers with the corner edge of the box sections pushing against the side seam, then allow it to dry that way.
I assume you're pounding out your seams after you've trimmed it well, and once again after you've turn the tops.
I also use a rub stick on the seam, especially at the counter to burnish it some and eliminate in advace the customer complaint that it's uncomfortable.
You can work it some more by over-folding at the seams by hand to eliminate your "pull in".
I use Mallory Top Stretchers to tree the tops in the finishing process.
Many makers use a 2 by ? of a shape to tree tops, and that might be commented on by another here.
I hope you find something in there you can use.
Paul |
Tex Robin (Tex_robin)
Member
Username: Tex_robin
Post Number: 2149
Registered: 1-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, June 30, 2012 - 4:12 pm: | |
All, this is the way I do it...after sidseaming the tops I trim them with a knife at an angle from both sides. Then I take the tops to the grinder(actually I now use my (Naumkeg)with about 150 grit paper and sand the edges to a nice round smooth finish. This eliminates any rubbing on the legs..after that I rub the seams down with my steel shaft that weighs about 10 lbs...I NEVER hammer any sidseam. All you need is to bust a stitch and then have to reach down in a boot and sew one back by hand sometime as I have..After turning the tops I roll the outside seam with my steel rod (I never hammer either inside or out) It was a great improvement when I started sanding the seams smooth...TR |
Tex Robin (Tex_robin)
Member
Username: Tex_robin
Post Number: 2150
Registered: 1-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, June 30, 2012 - 4:16 pm: | |
PS: ALWAYS dip the edges in a bucket of clean water before rubbing the seams down...TR |
Old Tascosa Leather (Bob_murray)
New member
Username: Bob_murray
Post Number: 44
Registered: 3-2011
| | Posted on Saturday, June 30, 2012 - 5:04 pm: | |
Tex, I appreciate your advice. Just last week I ripped a top at the side seam as I was hammering the hell out of it and then had to think there has got to be a better way. Tell us more about your weighted steel shaft, or better yet, show a picture.Thank you. |
Nick Jones (Woodiebc)
New member
Username: Woodiebc
Post Number: 16
Registered: 5-2012
| | Posted on Saturday, June 30, 2012 - 5:28 pm: | |
Tex that really does sound much better than beating the poor thing with a hammer. I will try that next time for sure. Thank you.
Paul, I still need to get some stretchers. One thing at a time haha. |
Tex Robin (Tex_robin)
Member
Username: Tex_robin
Post Number: 2151
Registered: 1-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, June 30, 2012 - 9:08 pm: | |
The piece of steel I use for rubbing my sideseams is 1 1/4 inch diamater. I don't know where it came from but it is a nice piece of very smooth steel. It could have been made from an old shaft off of a Landis finisher. You could find something like it in a machine shop or maybe a scrap iron salvage yard. Or an old boot shop!..TR |
Old Tascosa Leather (Bob_murray)
New member
Username: Bob_murray
Post Number: 45
Registered: 3-2011
| | Posted on Saturday, June 30, 2012 - 11:17 pm: | |
Thank you Tex, I will see what I can find. |
Mike Karnes (Jmkarnes)
New member
Username: Jmkarnes
Post Number: 194
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, July 01, 2012 - 12:36 am: | |
Just one more comment on the subject that might be helpful: maybe the leather you are using for tops is kind of heavy for the purpose so it is going to be harder to get a flat side seam. I use a lot of sorta too heavy cow for tops also but I run the edges through the bell knife at a long taper so the seams make up a lot easier. If you don't have a bell knife I guess a guy could do it by hand but a 3/4" wide skive wouldn't be easy. By the way, the shaft out of a hydraulic cylinder makes a good "rub stick"; it's heavy and chrome plated. |
Nick Jones (Woodiebc)
New member
Username: Woodiebc
Post Number: 17
Registered: 5-2012
| | Posted on Sunday, July 01, 2012 - 8:36 am: | |
4.5oz plus lining so I guess its a lot to ask. I don't have access to a bell knife so will try it by hand.
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