| Author | Message | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 934 Registered: 1-2004 |
The vamps are then dampened, the toe boxes and insole are cemented and then quickly lasted in using a combination of tacks and a string. The string will be used as a reference for inseaming to get a straight welt line.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 935 Registered: 1-2004 |
To be continued on Sunday. Lee & Carrlyn | ||
| James Ross (James_ross)
New member Username: James_ross Post Number: 17 Registered: 12-2006 |
I am really enjoying this as well. I have a dumb question for you. Do yall find tongue patterns like this one with definate sharp points more difficult to sew than one with rounded less definate points? This is just somethig i have noticed in my work, but i havent made near as many as yall have. Adios JR | ||
| Lee Miller (Lee_miller)
New member Username: Lee_miller Post Number: 201 Registered: 1-2004 |
Armando, I'm glad you're enjoying this. Side seaming is a really difficult part and I can understand why you're doing it by hand. I've only side seamed by hand when I've had to do a re vamp of an old pair of boots. Lee | ||
| Lee Miller (Lee_miller)
New member Username: Lee_miller Post Number: 202 Registered: 1-2004 |
M.A., First off you need to learn to spell empty correctly. And secondly, our coffee cups are empty because you haven't sent us any coffee  But, seriously I'm glad to see you posting here. Lee | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 936 Registered: 1-2004 |
Lisa, Bob was very specific about the color of the flowers. Thank you for the compliment. | ||
| Lee Miller (Lee_miller)
New member Username: Lee_miller Post Number: 204 Registered: 1-2004 |
Brian, I'm cutting my toe boxes out of an 11/12 iron sole bend. I then split them down to a plump 1/8" thick, soak them, and then shape them with my straight knife before I put them on. Lee | ||
| Lee Miller (Lee_miller)
New member Username: Lee_miller Post Number: 205 Registered: 1-2004 |
James, These tongues with a lot of points are difficult to draw up, cut, and then sew on. It's absolutely easier to do a tongue without all these points. This particular tongue took me a little bit to get it right. I don't do many like this, but this was a special request from the customer. Lee | ||
| Janne Melkersson (Janne_m)
New member Username: Janne_m Post Number: 243 Registered: 1-2004 |
Lee, so interesting to see that you are using the string during the lasting process. I am a string user too. It is a common technique in Europe at least in the orthopaedic trade. If you are looking for an straight line the use of an hot heel iron will make the lasting allowance sharp as the crease on a cowboys Wrangler jeans | ||
| Lee Miller (Lee_miller)
New member Username: Lee_miller Post Number: 208 Registered: 1-2004 |
Janne, In bootmaking school they taught us to use wire. In the photos of bootmaking in Texas in 1938 they were using wire. I'm using string and I like it better. Interesting that it's a common technique in Europe. Lee | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 937 Registered: 1-2004 |
This picture is a little out of sequence. It shows the insole trimmed before lasting. I thinned out the shank and then I used a beveled edge for the feather and cut my channel with a knife at an angle. This was shown to me by Charlie Dunn 30 years ago. I've been using it ever since. The beveled edge was dished out slightly to accept the welt.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 938 Registered: 1-2004 |
The nails are pulled and I'm starting to inseam.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 939 Registered: 1-2004 |
Inseaming around the toe.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 940 Registered: 1-2004 |
Here's another shot of the inseaming. The hand threads were made prior to starting to inseam.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 941 Registered: 1-2004 |
After I finished inseaming, I whip in the shank. The 2 ounce brass lasting tacks in the heel seat will stay in. Now it's time to make the 40 penny nail for the shank.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 942 Registered: 1-2004 |
Once the nail is red hot, it's hammered out on an anvil.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 943 Registered: 1-2004 |
After flattening out the nail, I quickly throw it in to cold water to harden it.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 944 Registered: 1-2004 |
Here's a picture of the nails drying in the hot Texas sun.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 945 Registered: 1-2004 |
I cut some leather skives to use to brace the nail in the shank.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 946 Registered: 1-2004 |
The nail is formed to fit the shank of the boot and cemented along with the skives.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 947 Registered: 1-2004 |
I cut an arch cover out of an 11/12 ir. sole bend and filler for the forepart out of lining and then cement them.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 948 Registered: 1-2004 |
The nail and the skives are hammered in and cemented with all purpose to receive the arch cover.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 949 Registered: 1-2004 |
The leather arch cover is hammered on, and then shaped to accept the heel height that the customer ordered.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 950 Registered: 1-2004 |
The forepart has been cemented to accept the filler.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 951 Registered: 1-2004 |
The filler has been hammered in, trimmed and sanded. Ready for the sole. To be continued.... Special message to BY - I meant to say Dark Fuschia!!  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 952 Registered: 1-2004 |
The sole is prepped (primer, cased, and cemented), and the boot is cemented then the sole is attached. The shank is wooden pegged (10 to the inch), and the heel is nailed with 5/8 brass clinching nails.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 953 Registered: 1-2004 |
The sole is then stitched on the curved needle.The channel is closed, the welt is fudged and the stitches are dyed black. Then they are allowed to dry.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 954 Registered: 1-2004 |
When the sole is dry, the sole is trimmed on the trimmer head. On some pairs I will finish the shank and the sole before I build the heel. This picture shows masking tape put on and the shank design cut, and the boot is then dyed and inked.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 955 Registered: 1-2004 |
The shank and the soles are burnished, and it's time to build the heels. The heel length is marked and a rand piece is cut and cemented.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 956 Registered: 1-2004 |
The leather boot heel will be built lift by lift. This picture shows the lifts sanded and cemented, ready for use.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 957 Registered: 1-2004 |
This picture shows the rand on, the heel length marked and cemented for the next lift.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 958 Registered: 1-2004 |
In this picture you see some the layers of lifts on.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 959 Registered: 1-2004 |
When you have on the last lift the heel base is shaped, the top rand is trimmed and filed. Then the heel is nailed and re leveled to the desired height. The rubber cap is then cemented and nailed on. The rand piece needs to be trimmed and the heel needs to be shaped, but that will be later.  To be continued.... | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 961 Registered: 1-2004 |
The heel is shaped, dyed and inked, and then burnished. Then we use a slide wheel to mark along the top of the heel.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 962 Registered: 1-2004 |
We've sanded and bottom stained the forepart, and then marked the shank in a decorative manner.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 963 Registered: 1-2004 |
Here's a picture of the side profile showing the finished burnishing.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 964 Registered: 1-2004 |
We make a ticket for every customer giving us the specs on the boot as we make it. We write down the way the boots will be treed.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 965 Registered: 1-2004 |
The appropriate trees have been selected and layed out for use.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 966 Registered: 1-2004 |
The lining of the boot tops and outside of the boot tops are dampened and then treed to the measurements needed. You have to make sure that the boot tops are the same height.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 967 Registered: 1-2004 |
The boots are set aside and allowed to dry. They will be finished the next day.  We will complete the series tomorrow. | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 968 Registered: 1-2004 |
This picture is a little bit out of sequence. After the boots are burnished, marked, and bottom stained, the last needs to be pulled and the pegs sanded. And then..... the boots are treed.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 969 Registered: 1-2004 |
While the boots are in the trees, they are cleaned, conditioned and rubbed down. The trees are pulled and the heel pads are cut and cemented in. Now the boots will be shined, and ragged down to a high gloss.  | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 970 Registered: 1-2004 |
This is the end of our series, Step by Step. We wanted people to feel as if they were sitting in our bootshop watching a pair of boots being made. We hoped that everyone enjoyed it and we appreciate the comments that were made. Thanks for watching this Carrlyn & Lee | ||
| Brian C. Thomas (Brian_c_thomas)
New member Username: Brian_c_thomas Post Number: 672 Registered: 1-2004 |
Lee, Carrlyn, Julia, Great Job and beautiful boots. I know it took a lot of extra time to make this project. I must say the toe shape, profile, and finnish work are exceptional! "Ref post 963" "Still Humble for the Brand" Brian C. Thomas | ||
| Bob Young (Byoung)
New member Username: Byoung Post Number: 1 Registered: 4-2005 |
Carrlyn, Julia, and Lee, Wow! Wow! Wow! Simply spectacular! When we first discussed these boots a few years ago, I had no idea they would someday take on a life of their own! They exceed my wildest expectations. I can’t wait ‘til they arrive here tomorrow, although now I’m afraid to wear ‘em. Just kidding. I just wanted to take this opportunity to thank you publicly for your grace, skill, and collaborative approach while taking these boots from imagination to reality. Thank you so much for tolerating my many (!) phone calls and E-mails as we discussed every (and I do mean, “every”) boot idea that would occur to me. In today’s impersonalized world of instant gratification and loss of skilled craftsmanship (e.g., “whaddya mean I can’t just push a button on a computer and create a ….?”), you, and the other craftspeople on this forum, are a breath of fresh air. It has been extremely gratifying for me to observe how the “Step-by-Step” series has been received by the community in the selfless spirit which you offered it. You’ve done a great service to the craft. Finally, to those who think the Tulip inlay is “pink,” it’s “DARK FUSCIA!” LOL. Best to you……. | ||
| Carlos (Corlas)
New member Username: Corlas Post Number: 25 Registered: 11-2006 |
Carrlyn, Lee, Julia: Thanks. This post is for me an emotional post, because is more than great to see how you works. And I've learned a lot. The way you make the shanks is super! Thanks, thanks, thanks. Health! | ||
| Mark C. Candela (Mark_candela)
New member Username: Mark_candela Post Number: 43 Registered: 5-2006 |
Lee, I know this is probably asking a lot but would expand a bit on your Charlie Dunn method of creating the feather and channel for the insole. It looks like it creates a pretty solid holdfast area for inseaming. I'd like to learn it. I am getting ready to prepare some insoles here shortly and would like to try it. Thanks, Mark | ||
| Josie Sifft (Josie)
New member Username: Josie Post Number: 26 Registered: 2-2007 |
HI Lee and Carrlyn- Just saw your boots in the November issue of Horse and Rider in the article Boot Bonanza!on page 63. They didn't give you much recognition, but at least they said Thanks. | ||
| Janne Melkersson (Janne_m)
New member Username: Janne_m Post Number: 293 Registered: 1-2004 |
Carrlyn & Lee, I have not seen this essay until today and I can assure you it was like sitting in your shop watching a pair of boots being made. Many thanks for taking the time showing us this. Janne p.s. I could almost smell the coffee kettle:-) | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 1009 Registered: 1-2004 |
Hi Josie, Thanks for mentioning the magazine article. I was happy to see that for the first time one of my picutres made publication | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 1010 Registered: 1-2004 |
Hi Janne, Thanks for the compliment. I was just purging an old computer of mine on Sunday when I found some pictures of when you were in Texas. You're welcome back anytime and we'll put a pot of coffee on for you. Hope all is well.  | ||
| Janne Melkersson (Janne_m)
New member Username: Janne_m Post Number: 294 Registered: 1-2004 |
Carrlynn, All is very well, thank you! And thanks for the invitation. Last weekend there was a (small) round-up of Swedish makers in my shop and we where talking about visiting makers abroad. On the list there is of course a bunch of US bootmakers but also Marcel in Hungary and a round-up in Dublin Ireland. If wasn't for the money we agreed that we would visit them all! Janne ps for those who don't know me I would like to add that I am the guy to the left. | ||
| Dan Hickman (Dan_hickman)
New member Username: Dan_hickman Post Number: 24 Registered: 9-2009 |
Looking over your step by step, which I have done numerous times, I have a question. How do you transfer the stitch pattern onto the light colored leather tops? And by the way I'm still awaiting the announcement of your book.;) | ||
| Lee Miller (Lee_miller)
New member Username: Lee_miller Post Number: 343 Registered: 1-2004 |
Dan, For transfering stich patterns onto light leather I bought some blue marking chalk for chalk lines and mixed it equal parts with baby powder and put it in a powder bag. If you use it full strength it will change the color of the first row of thread. I hope to have the book available this year. Lee | ||
| Tom O'Sullivan (Tomo)
New member Username: Tomo Post Number: 35 Registered: 3-2004 |
Hi Lee, I used that marking chalk for saddle fitting and it does work great, but I was put off because they recommend that you don't breathe the stuff in.... In California its a carsnegin (sp.) or something. So now I use some pigment from the art section in our paint shop it's made by DAS (I think?) and suppose to be safe. I mix that with baby powder to extend and cut it. No good on blue horses though so I have to switch to red :D |