Step by Step

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Author Message Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 882 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2007 - 8:40 pm:    Tex's comments about how many steps are there in bootmaking is timely. We had just been planning to post this "step-by-step" following a pair a pair of boots being made for a customer of ours; a Washington DC bureaucrat. This is not meant to be used to teach bootmaking. Only to show the steps that we take to make a pair of boots. Here is a picture of the completed boots. They are Hardtke's Burgandy and Bone Kangaroo. We will be posting pictures daily for a while. We hope you enjoy it. Any comments are welcome. Lee & Carrlyn Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 883 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2007 - 8:43 pm:    Our customer wanted us to use a tulip pattern from 1937 that was meant to be a stitch pattern. We had to turn it into an inlay. This is the original pattern from 1937, with his order and swatches of the leather that he chose for his boots. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 884 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2007 - 8:45 pm:    We had made him a pair of boots a few years back using an S5280 last. They had a round toe and so we needed to change it into a box toe. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 885 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2007 - 8:47 pm:    Here's a shot showing the lasts out on the rail with the little leather pieces that will be put on when the cement is dry. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 886 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2007 - 8:49 pm:    Here's a picture showing the leather build up attached, but not shaped. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 887 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2007 - 8:50 pm:    The toes are shaped, and a hardener has been put on to seal the leather from absorbing any water. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 888 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2007 - 8:53 pm:    We've cut out the insoles out of a 10 iron insole strip from Keystone Leather. After the grain has been buffed, the insoles need to be soaked before they are put on the lasts. To be continued...... Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 891 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Monday, June 11, 2007 - 8:29 pm:    We've had to cut new patterns and draw in the design adjusting for the differences in height and the fact that it's going to be an inlay. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 892 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Monday, June 11, 2007 - 8:31 pm:    Here is the pattern ready to be sewn on the sewing machine with no thread. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 893 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Monday, June 11, 2007 - 8:33 pm:    Pull strap pattern with initials on the inside of the pull and heart on the outside. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 894 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Monday, June 11, 2007 - 8:35 pm:    The bone kangaroo is mapped out for the cutting of the tops. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 895 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Monday, June 11, 2007 - 8:37 pm:    We've mapped out where we're going to cut out the vamps. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 896 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Monday, June 11, 2007 - 8:38 pm:    We've cut out the linings for the front of the tops and skived them. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 897 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Monday, June 11, 2007 - 8:40 pm:    The linings have been cut out for the back panels of the tops, skived and attached heel slides. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 898 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Monday, June 11, 2007 - 8:42 pm:    The heart has been cut out of the pulls straps and skived. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 899 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Monday, June 11, 2007 - 8:43 pm:    The red has been added for the heart and the pull straps have been assembled. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 900 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Monday, June 11, 2007 - 8:44 pm:    Now it's time to cut the vamps. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 901 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Monday, June 11, 2007 - 8:47 pm:    The vamps have been cut and now need to be crimped.To be continued... Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 902 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Tuesday, June 12, 2007 - 8:37 pm:    We've made a cutting pattern and cemented two back panels together and Julia who is our top person will be cutting out the inlay on a 31-15 sewing machine that has a needle sharpened to act as a knife. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 903 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Tuesday, June 12, 2007 - 8:38 pm:    Here is Julia skiving the individual inlays. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 904 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Tuesday, June 12, 2007 - 8:40 pm:    The counter cover has been cut out and skived. The tongue style is referred to as the "pineapple tongue." Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 906 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Tuesday, June 12, 2007 - 8:44 pm:    Julia has cut out vamp linings and is now crimping them. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 907 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Tuesday, June 12, 2007 - 8:45 pm:    The kangaroo vamps are crimped on the crimping boards. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 908 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Tuesday, June 12, 2007 - 8:47 pm:    The insoles have been soaked and attached to the lasts and wrapped with an elastic bandage which will stay on 24 hours. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 909 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Tuesday, June 12, 2007 - 8:49 pm:    Here you see Julia skiving the fuschia for the tulips. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 910 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Tuesday, June 12, 2007 - 8:50 pm:    The fuschia has been cemented on to the backs of the tops and the side welt and top bead has been made. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 911 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Tuesday, June 12, 2007 - 8:52 pm:    The lining and top bead has been put in and the detail on the tops is now ready to sew. Janne Melkersson (Janne_m) New member Username: Janne_m Post Number: 242 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 - 12:57 am:    Carrlyn, thank you for taking the time showing us your way of making boots. Beautiful photos and work. Carlos (Corlas) New member Username: Corlas Post Number: 23 Registered: 11-2006 Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 - 5:19 am:    Hola, Carrlyn, this is a very great posting. Health to everyone! (Edited by moderator, some info moved to "News" topic) (Message edited by admin on June 13, 2007) Tex Robin (Tex_robin) New member Username: Tex_robin Post Number: 1157 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 - 10:39 am:    Lee, Hey, some of us bootmakers might pick up some pointers from this...I for one would like to see the knife Julia uses to skive the inlays....TR Brian C. Thomas (Brian_c_thomas) New member Username: Brian_c_thomas Post Number: 663 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 - 5:29 pm:    Carrlyn,Lee, great work and photos. Bootmakers Note: Dick Anderson Crimp screws used, and they are free standing Lee Miller (Lee_miller) New member Username: Lee_miller Post Number: 196 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 - 8:24 pm:    Janne, Carlos and Brian, I'm glad that you're enjoying this. More to come. Carrlyn & Lee Lee Miller (Lee_miller) New member Username: Lee_miller Post Number: 197 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 - 8:28 pm:    Tex, Here's a picture of Julia's knife and a blade as you buy it. Ruben Diaz, a great bootmaker at Little's, sent me one of these. As you can see, the tip of the blade has been changed and then covered with lining leather. These blades are high speed cutting knives by Eastman and are sold in different lengths. They can be bought on ebay and I'm sure they're other sources. Some bootmakers use them for cutting and skiving and they hold a fantastic durable edge. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 912 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 - 8:31 pm:    The pull strap has an inlay heart and the customer's initials are ready to be stitched. These initials will be on the inside of the boot tops. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 913 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 - 8:34 pm:    Julia marked with blue chalk where the borders will be stitched. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 914 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 - 8:35 pm:    Here's a picture showing how Julia has started stitching the borders using green thread. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 915 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 - 8:37 pm:    Here are the back panels with more green stitching on them. We do sew the pattern in sections. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 916 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 - 8:39 pm:    Here's the pull straps with the initials sewn on them. All that's left to be done is punch the hole and cut the legs. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 917 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 - 8:41 pm:    Julia has finished stitching the front panels and trimmed the lining at the top. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 918 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 - 8:43 pm:    Julia has rubber cemented the vamps together and laid the template on the vamps and has cut the tongue shape. She's also trimmed the sides. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 919 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 - 8:46 pm:    Julia positioned the toe flower on the vamp, rubber cemented a piece of kangaroo underneath and sewed the toe flower. Then she drew the threads through and all purposed cemented them in place. She will trim the under lying piece and then cord them. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 920 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 - 8:48 pm:    The vamps were sewn on with one row. The linings were trimmed and cemented in and two additional rows were sewn. Then we trimmed the sides of the vamps straights. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 921 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 - 8:51 pm:    Julia cut the heavy leather counters, shaped and sewed them in. She then sewed the counter cover on with three rows. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 922 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 - 8:53 pm:    More tomorrow. Josie Sifft (Josie) New member Username: Josie Post Number: 11 Registered: 2-2007 Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2007 - 5:04 pm:    WOW- this is fantastic. Just what those of us new to bootmaking can really appreciate- pictures marking the step by step process. I've been working on the fittings for the lasts, and I just finished cutting out patterns and cut the vamps and vamp liners for my first pair of boots. Still deciding on the stitching for the tops. Then, I'm ready to get going. Thank you so much. Look forward to the rest... Brian C. Thomas (Brian_c_thomas) New member Username: Brian_c_thomas Post Number: 665 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2007 - 6:16 pm:    Shoemakers Note: Ladies Fitter shoe in Background in post 921. "Shoemaking Alive and Well at Texas Traditions for the Brand" Brian C. Thomas Mark W. Fletcher (Bronbo) New member Username: Bronbo Post Number: 692 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2007 - 6:42 pm:    Lee, Carrlyn, Julia, Great work, it is wonderful to see everything made, put together, and made into something beautiful. It is a great bootmaking "tutorial." Take a well deserved break. Gary Cunningham (Gcunning) New member Username: Gcunning Post Number: 229 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2007 - 7:05 pm:    Ok This is really great!!! Since I make so few and work in spirts I have to re-think steps many times. I may print this out as a visual. Thanks Carrlyn!!! Look forward to the rest. Lee Miller (Lee_miller) New member Username: Lee_miller Post Number: 198 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2007 - 7:53 pm:    Thanks to everybody for their remarks on these photos. Both Carrlyn and I are happy that people are enjoying this! Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 923 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2007 - 7:56 pm:    The kangaroo side welt has been sewn to the back panels. We've cupped the counters prior to side seaming so that they will be straight at the bottom. We cemented the side welt with all purpose. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 924 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2007 - 7:59 pm:    This shows the front panels. We've put a thin bead of all purpose cement down the sides prior to side seaming. To help match the vamp and counter cover points we've poked a small hole and will be using that to help lin it up as we put it together. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 925 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2007 - 8:01 pm:    The front and back panels have been put together and are now ready to be side seamed. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 926 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2007 - 8:04 pm:    The side seaming is done. Knots need to be tied and the sides need to be carefully trimmed, and then hammered out on a board. Some bootmakers use different machines for the side seaming process. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 927 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2007 - 8:07 pm:    While the tops were inside out, we sewed the pull straps on using the 31-15. We then turned the tops right side out, and then hammered them on a board. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 928 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2007 - 8:10 pm:    While the tops are damp from the side seaming and turning process, it's the perfect time to last. The tops were sprayed and lasted as a pair. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 929 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2007 - 8:12 pm:    The boots have been lasted and put on the shelf. Note that the toes have been released in the front. Sometimes in the drying the toes will crack unless you release them. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 930 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2007 - 8:15 pm:    The next day, for the toe boxing, the lining has been trimmed and pulled back and cemented along with the insole. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 931 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2007 - 8:18 pm:    A leather toe box has been wet and prepared for each boot. It is then cemented along with the boots. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 932 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2007 - 8:21 pm:    When dry the toe boxes are lasted in and then sewn in the front to the insole. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 933 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2007 - 8:23 pm:    When dry, the leather toes need to be shaped using a sander and a file. Two coats of hardener are then applied. Armando Dominguez (Adominguez) New member Username: Adominguez Post Number: 9 Registered: 6-2007 Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2007 - 8:43 pm:    carrlyn and lee, just want to let you know i'm enjoing this, too. And i have a landis k and american straight needle, but i've given up on both for side seaming; i've been hand sewing them for the last 5 years, but i take them home and do them at night. Armando Armando Dominguez (Adominguez) New member Username: Adominguez Post Number: 10 Registered: 6-2007 Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2007 - 8:46 pm:    carrlyn and lee, just want to let you know i'm enjoing this, too. And i have a landis k and american straight needle, but i've given up on both for side seaming; i've been hand sewing them for the last 5 years, but i take them home and do them at night. Armando Michael Anthony (Michael_anthony) New member Username: Michael_anthony Post Number: 3 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Friday, June 15, 2007 - 1:19 am:    Hej Lee, Thank you for posting the beautiful pics and I have two questions please: 1) Post # 897, why is the coffee cup emty? 2) Post # 906, why is Julia wearing sneakers? There must be a good reason for the sneakers but an emty coffee cup in a bootshop? Can that be right? Michael Robin Baker (Robin_baker) New member Username: Robin_baker Post Number: 7 Registered: 2-2006 Posted on Friday, June 15, 2007 - 8:59 am:    I've been following posts on this list for many months, and this is the best series of posts I've seen. Carrlyn and Lee -- Thank you for the wonderful pictures and excellent instructions!! Those boots are gorgeous!! However, Michael Anthony brings up some important points about the coffee cup and especially the sneakers. Do most bootmakers only wear cowboy boots, and if they do, do they have to be custom made???? Robin Gary Cunningham (Gcunning) New member Username: Gcunning Post Number: 230 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Friday, June 15, 2007 - 12:47 pm:    I'll answer this under "lets Chat" "Should Custom Bootmakers Wear Custom Boots?" Brian C. Thomas (Brian_c_thomas) New member Username: Brian_c_thomas Post Number: 666 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Friday, June 15, 2007 - 6:12 pm:    Lee, tell us about the weight/oz of your leather toe boxes, they look good and heavy "Old school toe box for the Brand" Brian C. Thomas Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 960 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2007 - 8:10 am:    Lisa, The top lining is Hardtke's San Antonio Cow, and the vamp lining is Cream Cow from Sun City Leather. Suzanne Watson (Suzanne) New member Username: Suzanne Post Number: 65 Registered: 7-2008 Posted on Sunday, May 10, 2009 - 7:39 pm:    Wow, Carrlyn, I just discovered this fantastic tutorial. Thanks. Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn) New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 1270 Registered: 1-2004 Posted on Monday, May 11, 2009 - 4:24 pm:    Hi Suzanne, Glad you found and enjoyed the tutorial.