| Author | Message | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 4 Registered: 5-2009 |
I'll be posting my student work as I progress. Pardon the quality, I was taking photos on the BlackBerry. First pair of boots, shop order, kid tops, oil skin vamps and counter covers. <img> I got a tad overzealous and aimed for 5 rows of stitching on my first pair. O.o Waiting for the right lasts to do AB toes on these. <img> An experiment in tooling a vamp. 6-7 oz veg tanned. Crimping does not seem to destroy/mangle the tooling. <img> Another shop order: red kidd skin tops, bull hide vamps and ccs. Black kidd skin mule inlay. Also my first inlay. <img> Same boots, with celastic toe boxes in. Finished the welts on the boots this morning. My first set of welts were...well, something extraordinary (extraordinarily what is the question). I started on a third pair Friday, pair of solid black (work boot leather) boots that I will be lasting for my feet. Figure I might as well learn from the pain of bruises and blisters as to why 'we' do each step and why it matters. More as we move along... | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 5 Registered: 5-2009 |
*cough**cough* One of these days I'll read the Administrator's Notes before posting ... *cough* Here are the links to those photos: First Pair Tooled Vamp Mule Inlay Mulies With Toe Box | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 8 Registered: 5-2009 |
 Two shop orders (on the left), one pair for the wife.  Giving a go at a pair of shoes... no help, just trial (and trial) and error (and errrrorrrr). | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 9 Registered: 5-2009 |
The three boots above have all been lasted, I finished the welt yesterday. I'll be a heel shapin' dude the rest of the week. The 50s sock hoppers already have their heels on them. I'll have the cowboys dancin' by noon. -Jeff | ||
| Mark W. Fletcher (Bronbo)
Member Username: Bronbo Post Number: 1083 Registered: 1-2004 |
Jeff, Can't wait to see the finished product. Mark | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 10 Registered: 5-2009 |
 I'm sure Mr. Dewitt will be pleased to learn that his bootmaker has been busy during his vacation...erm, making shoes. :D There's a lot to take in and learn from doing this first pair of shoes --- all of it applicable to bootmaking. I'll need a cold beer and a week to think on it. | ||
| Janne Melkersson (Janne_m)
New member Username: Janne_m Post Number: 341 Registered: 1-2004 |
Jeff, congrats on your first pair of shoes. Keep them coming! | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 14 Registered: 5-2009 |
Janne, I need some sexier leather in my scrap box if I'm going to keep up around here! :D | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 22 Registered: 5-2009 |
Works in progress wk ending 7/14: Neon cowboy kickers, diamond inlays:  Tops are waxed calf (Cheapie shoe leather) counter covers are brown bullhide shoulder.  Saddled vamp, saddle out of veg tan; filigree on the forepart, vamp under crackled brown cowhide finish. That buggery green thing behind the vamp is a mock-up of an experimental pattern for an English/field riding boot with a Spanish top. Throat measurements came out great. Time to fix the height gradient as it travels to the calf (without losing that heel measurement at the throat).  Holy hot lizard on fire! Those aren't boots! Tiny pair of slip-ons being made for my wife. -Jeff | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 24 Registered: 5-2009 |
  I had enormous success with the bottom finish on these (no Edge Kote, just dyes and burnishing)--- I wish I had not slapped these together so quickly and taken the time to make every stitch count. Really quirky and fun shoe...fits great on my wife's feet. Her only complaint was that ---because I used a thick midsole--- there wasn't much flex to the shoe. | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 25 Registered: 5-2009 |
I saw an article earlier this week that talked about how most people attempt multitasking and that most multitaskers are poor performers at multitasking...   I obviously don't buy into their brand. What else do you do when the glue's drying? Start another boot, of course! | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 32 Registered: 5-2009 |
  Open toed mules? Sandals? Umm...open toed, open side..er.. women's foot huggers. Yes, that's what we'll call 'em. | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 35 Registered: 5-2009 |
  These boots were actually great fun. Hand-stitched sole welt using the spinning/goiser stitch, good first attempt at hiding the bottom of the stitch line. Inked and burnished bottoms, Cuban heel. Waxy calf tops and vamps, lambskin liner for both tops and vamps...also, probably the last time I use lamb for a vamp liner (we all have our demons, lamb vamp liners just happens to be mine). I actually hate to see these go, the owner of them is lucky she's a last size smaller than mine. O.o | ||
| Paul Krause (Paul)
New member Username: Paul Post Number: 204 Registered: 1-2008 |
Way to go Jeff, I must be a thrill to do shop orders while still in school. Looks like you did a good job. Keep up the good work. Paul | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 36 Registered: 5-2009 |
Thanks Paul...let's just hope they fit! | ||
| Paul Krause (Paul)
New member Username: Paul Post Number: 205 Registered: 1-2008 |
Amen brother. And may that hope never go away. | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 37 Registered: 5-2009 |
I can't decide if it's the sheriff, or an outlaw...   10" stovepipes with a 3/4 bottom welt. Oil tan tops with dyed silhouette. Bullhide vamps and counters. Matching heel stain and bottom finish. I’ll be breaking these in ’round Branson, MO tomorrow, Friday, and Sat. | ||
| Paul Krause (Paul)
New member Username: Paul Post Number: 208 Registered: 1-2008 |
Jeff, From what I can see these are showing improvement. Tell us about the dyed silhouette, it looks interesting. Paul | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 38 Registered: 5-2009 |
Paul, I traced out the shape of the shadowy rider using a modeling spoon, then I scraped off the layer of wax using an exacto blade. I used a purple dye and a brush and re-dyed the leather, then carefully rubbed off the excess dye with a damp cloth. I applied a layer of gum tragacanth and then re-burnished the silhouette. One thing learned from this experiment: soak the leathers and let as much dye come out as possible--- maybe use the waxing wheel and an application of wax on the tops as the soaking prior to turning with the decorated front tops bled a bit to the backs (I have shadows of shadowy figures... O.o). The brown wax stain and wheel used on the finishing brought back most of the color. I like the results of the experiment, I think it's a technique I'll develop a bit further. -Jeff | ||
| Carrlyn Miller (Carrlyn)
New member Username: Carrlyn Post Number: 1292 Registered: 1-2004 |
Jeff, You certainly keep busy. How long have you been doing this and how many pair of boots/shoes/mules have you made? Keep up the good work. | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 39 Registered: 5-2009 |
Carrlyn, I've been working with leather for about 3 years. I only just started at Green Country making boots for 4 months. I've lost count of the number of boots I've made...somewhere around 13-ish? 1 mule, 3 pr of shoes... and an English saddle. I *think* this is a healthy obsession... ;) | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 40 Registered: 5-2009 |
   Finished these today. Tinkering with patterns and possibilities. | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 41 Registered: 5-2009 |
Don't you step on mah blue suede boots. ...if Elvis were a cowboy... French Ostrich? Oui!Oui! French calf on French calf w/ chocolate ostrich. 1 if by land, 2 if by sea... Black stingray (Panhandle Leather) with black kid (also Panhandle) with gator (say it like you mean it: "gaytuh.") It's exotics week, folks! (Message edited by admin on September 30, 2009) | ||
| Mark Fletcher (Admin)
Board Administrator Username: Admin Post Number: 179 Registered: 1-2009 |
Resize is your friend.    Don't you step on mah blue suede boots. ...if Elvis were a cowboy... French Ostrich? Oui!Oui! French calf on French calf w/ chocolate ostrich. 1 if by land, 2 if by sea... Black stingray (Panhandle Leather) with black kid (also Panhandle) with gator (say it like you mean it: "gaytuh.") It's exotics week, folks! (Message edited by admin on September 30, 2009) | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 43 Registered: 5-2009 |
No Mark, this time, you were my friend and resize was my enemy. Thank you! | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 45 Registered: 5-2009 |
 Gold (sparkles!) calf tops with French calf collar. Diamond filigree with blue bullfrog inlays.  Saddled vamp, French calf with diamond filigree for the saddled portion, crackle brown cow for the lower. Soft bison counter cover.  10" POWER PURPLE tops, 7 (and a half) rows of stitching---half row because I attempted to use a single white row as a partial decorative stitch.... Grey bull hide vamp and counter cover. It’s 4 a.m. and I’m a-makin’ boots! :D | ||
| Mark W. Fletcher (Bronbo)
Member Username: Bronbo Post Number: 1126 Registered: 1-2004 |
Jeff, Thats an interesting stitch pattern. Is it something the school had, did you do it yourself, what's its origin? Mark | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 46 Registered: 5-2009 |
Mark, That is a free-hand pattern that I loosely based off a fleur-de-lis. I wanted a pattern that grew more from the sides of the boot...and would force me to concentrate on lining up the sides from vamp to tip-top. I think with a little green it'll be ready for Mardi Gras. ;) -Jeff | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 47 Registered: 5-2009 |
 Black on black on black men's stingray slip-ons, stingray, kid, and stingray + gator back. | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 51 Registered: 5-2009 |
  3/4 welt, burnished French calf, ostrich. Last slip-on for awhile, I have some derbies and oxfords later this week to show... | ||
| Mark W. Fletcher (Bronbo)
Member Username: Bronbo Post Number: 1133 Registered: 1-2004 |
You are very busy. When do you have time to sleep? Mark | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 52 Registered: 5-2009 |
Mark, If the 2-3 hours of bed rest I get each night qualify as sleep... There *are* some benefits to chronic insomnia. ;) | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 53 Registered: 5-2009 |
 (Message edited by admin on October 28, 2009) | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 54 Registered: 5-2009 |
Oh Mark, ...apparently with my lack of sleep, also comes a lack of being able to pick the properly resized photo... *headdesk* | ||
| Mark Fletcher (Admin)
Board Administrator Username: Admin Post Number: 181 Registered: 1-2009 |
  These were built for Mr. Emery in exchange for feedback on fit. Men's whole cut oxford, 3 eyelets, square toe, full welt. I also successfully lasted a seamless oxford. It's Marcell's fault for inspiring such insanity! | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 55 Registered: 5-2009 |
 Country Oxford in Blue. Some say not to work on Sunday, as it's a day of rest. I say it's not work if you love it. | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 58 Registered: 5-2009 |
   Blue on blue suede brogued oxfords made for Green Country instructor Mike Dewitt. | ||
| Mark W. Fletcher (Bronbo)
Member Username: Bronbo Post Number: 1151 Registered: 1-2004 |
I am sure that Mike "Elvis" DeWitt is happy with those. "But don't you step on my blue suede shoes. You can do anything but lay off of my Blue suede shoes." Mark | ||
| Marlietta Schock (Lastmaker) New member Username: Lastmaker Post Number: 3 Registered: 11-2009 |
Jeff, thanks for posting! your slip on lizard shoes for your wife are awesome!! I can definitly see your emphasis on bootmaking in your shoes. It is an interesting mix! - Lastmakingschool.com | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 59 Registered: 5-2009 |
Mark, I tried to get Mr. Mike "Elvis" DeWitt to strike a pose... I even brought in pictures of Elvis dancing so that he could emulate The King. Unfortunately, I have no photographic evidence of any such action and must deny any allegations that Mr. Mike "Elvis" Dewitt knows how to jump, jive, and wail. Marlietta, Thank you! I keep the folks I go to school with entertained at least. I think I'm in a happy state of not knowing enough...to know better. ;) -Jeff | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 61 Registered: 5-2009 |
GREAT GOOGELY MOOGELY! I blew up the screen (again!). Ohhh Mark.. so terribly sorry. *headdesk* | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 62 Registered: 5-2009 |
   Fresh off the lasts! Men's oxford with brogued toe cap. Hardtke French calf...in fact, Hardtke everything on this one except the welt. Made for a 6'6" man who wears 13-14 US (45 Euro --- or thereabouts). Some issues with maintaining the roundness of the brogueing while lasting. | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 63 Registered: 5-2009 |
Mark, you may delete the previous (ZOMG You Are Eating My Screen) post. Thank you... your technically challenged Green Country Student. -Jeff | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 66 Registered: 5-2009 |
Mark, I'm so fired. You may delete that while I fix myself...apologies. | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 67 Registered: 5-2009 |
  Men's tri-colored derby with more hand brogueing than allowable by law. The bottom finish and stain is close to where I want it to be...but not quite. Two rows of stitching on a 3/4 welt. This makes for the first handmade bottom welt---hard rolled horse butt. | ||
| Mark W. Fletcher (Bronbo)
Member Username: Bronbo Post Number: 1162 Registered: 1-2004 |
Okay, go fix yourself. But make sure the doors are closed. <grin> I never seen that flavor of staining, where did you get it? Mark | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 68 Registered: 5-2009 |
Mark, You've never seen that stain because I just made it up--- today. One part scarlet leather dye, one part carnuba cream wax, brown Yankee wax on the buff wheel. The fiddle is combo of the previously mentioned plus Fiebing's Edge Kote --- the Kote did not hold as well as I wanted with the burnishing and wax wheel, will try two coats of kote and a longer dry time next go 'round. ...as far as fixing myself behind closed doors... [SENSORED][SENSORED][SENSORED]. Sorry, keeping it PG-13. :D -Jeff | ||
| Marlietta Schock (Lastmaker) New member Username: Lastmaker Post Number: 12 Registered: 11-2009 |
I love the lizard slip on shoes and the other renditions of which, do you have a pattern you would be willing to share for those shoes? | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 71 Registered: 5-2009 |
Marlietta, Uh...I suppose not? Let me think of a good way to get a pattern to you. I could email you a rough sketch that you could grade to the lasts you're using...or I could mail you hard copies that you can modify... I'm easy. Just let me know... -Jeff | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 76 Registered: 5-2009 |
Okay, let's see if I can do this without blowing up the whole screen...    American saddle oxford, decorative brogueing, navy kip, cordovan (colored) kip. | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 77 Registered: 5-2009 |
...the soles on those have already seen some wear.  | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 78 Registered: 5-2009 |
Construction and Style Mash-up!  3-piece boot made of Hardtke French calf, black bullhide. 3/4 welt with horse butt heel rand. Spanish style tops.  Since it was a combination of boot construction styles, I went with a modified mini-Cuban heel.  Single-row stitching of Chinese dragon, scales done with mules foot impressions. These are off to the Netherlands once I thaw out here. | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 79 Registered: 5-2009 |
My entry into "Club Chukka."  3 eyelet Chukka in black patent leather with red stitching.  Full welt on horsebutt, spinning stitch with reverse color spinning stitch on leather midsole.Welt made by hand, 7 strand waxed end. Italian leather outsole shaped by a broken piece of glass and sandpaper, heel lift stacked by hand, full peg outsole construction. Experimented with method of staining and dyeing outsole--- we'll see how that works out... Total time invested: 2 weeks. While you may/may not be a fan of black pantent---those of you who know me well (enough), know how speedy I am...to take 2 weeks and devote to a single boot/shoe is an accomplishment in and of itself. | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 80 Registered: 5-2009 |
 Cowboy work boot. Brown bull hide, green calf tops. Full storm welt. 4 rows of top stitching. Leather midsole with heat formed synthetic outsole.  Chukkas in burgundy French calf (from Hardtke). handmade horsebutt welt, leather midsole, heat formed synthetic outsole.  Jodphurs in progress. | ||
| Colin Wigington (Colnwig)
New member Username: Colnwig Post Number: 35 Registered: 10-2009 |
I love the hat in the last photo! and the apron! Of course I really like all of your work. lots of character! | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 81 Registered: 5-2009 |
Colin, Thank you. I figured since I had a bit of a throw-back of a vocation---I might as well wear a bit of a throw-back of a hat. Your enthusiasm is infectious, I appreciate the excitement and inquisitiveness you bring to the forums. -Jeff | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 83 Registered: 5-2009 |
 Jodhpur ankle boot, built on boot last (usually built on shoe last form, but I used a boot last to get the toe spring/heel height). Hardtke shrunken bull hide (Azteca), heavily antiqued and burnished. Handmade horse butt welt. Leather toe box. 1 3/4" Cuban heel.  Horse butt ‘belt’, brass buckle. A bit of a ‘throwback’ enclosure on a throwback boot. | ||
| Paul Krause (Paul)
New member Username: Paul Post Number: 226 Registered: 1-2008 |
Very cool lookin' Jeffrey! And of course I like the Cuban heel. I bet you get comments on the style from your friends. Keep up the good work. WHen do you do to Hungary? Paul | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 84 Registered: 5-2009 |
Paul, I think with a pith helmet I'd be ready to colonize in these jodhpurs! Sometimes, you just have to give in and give it the ol' Cuban heel. I'm off to Budapest on the 27th...I don't know if Marcell will be able to survive a whole month with me. :D -Jeff | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 85 Registered: 5-2009 |
As far as style Paul...I have a fairly diverse group of people that follow my leatherwork--- so typically appreciative of whatever I put forward. At school however... well, I'm often surprised at who really likes a particular boot or shoe. The patent chukkas caught the attention of several of the cleaning staff---the superintendent really, really likes the jodhpurs. You just never know... Most of the time though, I get mostly: "Huh." I'm not for everyone. ;) | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 87 Registered: 5-2009 |
 These were made while I was in Budapest...  7-eyelit wingtip Oxford, English welt construction, hidden channel, etc etc | ||
| Colin Double (Double)
New member Username: Double Post Number: 82 Registered: 5-2008 |
Nice work Jeff | ||
| Janne Melkersson (Janne_m)
New member Username: Janne_m Post Number: 361 Registered: 1-2004 |
Jeff, Congrats on a nice pair of shoes. | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 88 Registered: 5-2009 |
Colin thank you. Janne,TACK! | ||
| Jeff Richard (Jkrichard)
New member Username: Jkrichard Post Number: 89 Registered: 5-2009 |
Had my first experience with crepe... I mixed a little traditional with a little crepe...and this is what I came up with:  Whole-cut oxford in (Hardtke) French calf with asymmetric decorative brogue. Extended heel counter for additional ankle support.  Leather insole with additional instep support, heel and metatarsal support. Rubber midsole and crepe outsole, Cat’s paw wear surface. Will need to figure out how to blend the crepe better.  Norwegian welt, spinning stitch, double stitch-down construction with outer row additional spinning stitch as well. |